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July 4, 1999
Hawaii to Tarawa Voyage, Update #63
Day 62. Sunday 4 July 1999 0327 GMT
Wind E-ENE - 4 knots. Heading 230M
Latitude: 01deg 44.221N
Longitude: 179deg 49.844E
Shortly after noon my time (2200 GMT), the Good Ship Moksha, myself and 16 large Dorado fish crossed the 180 longitude degree line west (or east) of the Greenwich Prime Meridian Line; otherwise known as the International Date Line (sound of corks popping, car horns blaring etc). Disappointingly there was nothing apart from the GPS readout (see photo) to indicate we had in fact passed one of the most famous lines of definition in the known universe - the division between today and tomorrow. There was no little man holding a greetings sign saying, "Welcome to Tomorrow." No customs checkpoint. Just ocean as far as the eye can see. But for Expedition 360 - the first human powered around the world expedition - it marks the halfway point of our global quest. It has taken 5 years and 18,000 miles of biking, pedal boating, rollerblading, kayaking and walking to get to this point. It is a major milestone.
One of the reasons for this is we never expected to get this far (one of our darker secrets I can now let out). Back in '92, when Steve and I were still deciding on what route to take around the world, the original plan to go eastwards was shelved due to lack of funding. The idea of running out of cash in Russia or Afghanistan was not very appealing, so we decided to head westwards instead and see what support we could pick up in the US*. I remember one conversation in which we recognized the very real possibility of grinding to a halt once we'd crossed the Atlantic and having to return home with tails between our legs. Nevertheless, with Goethe's words, "whatever you can dream, or think you can, begin it" encouraging us on, we set out in July of '94 with Moksha still 'under construction', some cash hastily borrowed from family and plenty of fresh-faced spirit to take on the world.
Seven years on, we are still without any major financial support. But due to the overwhelming response from thousands of wonderful people met along the way, we are now half way around the planet. I find that incredible in itself. Crossing the 180 line is as much a testimony to the kindness of strangers than anything. Therefore, as a tribute to all those of you who have helped keep the dream alive (and conspired unwittingly to my current predicament of being stuck out in the middle of the Pacific), I raise the bottle of Glenlivet and say,
"Thanks."
Enough talk, back to the grind. The wind has changed for the better and Moksha is chomping at the bit. Tarawa beckons - as does the promise of new adventures and experiences hiding like gems in the carpet of destiny that unravels assuredly under our westward stride. We are now officially 'Homeward Bound' - only another 18,000 odd miles and ? years before the white cliffs of Dover loom on Moksha's horizon once more. Here's to tomorrow today - and maybe we'll do this side of the globe a little quicker.
*An apology for the presumption of probable charity for our cause is due to the American people who 'had it coming'!
Jason Lewis,
The Moksha motor
Posted on July 4, 1999 3:36 AM