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July 26, 1999
Tarawa Basecamp. Update #2
Tarawa update 2.
Monday 26th July 25, 1999
This afternoon we finally pulled Moksha out of Betio marina with the assistance of a trailer lent by Louie - an Australian who runs the local hardware store - and some of his helpers. Usually the transfer of boat from ocean to land or visa versa is a fairly nerve wracking affair, especially when using foreign trailers and people unfamiliar with how deceptively heavy Moksha is out of the water. But today's operation went smoother than any other I can remember. The key to success was human power: 40 or so young Kiribati men from the local college kindly stayed behind after class to man-handle Moksha from the trailer into the college's timber storage shed which will be her home for the next 5 months while we wait out the Typhoon season. I was amazed at the efficiency with which these people quickly organized themselves into a cohesive unit and proceeded with the minimum of fuss to slide Moksha off the back of the trailer onto level ground. The ease and lightheartedness with which this task was completed (jokes being cracked at frequent intervals throughout) left me with the impression that pulling pedal boats off trailers into confined spaces was something these folks did on a regular basis. The concept of 'many hands make for light work' is quite foreign to the likes of myself. Coming from a fully mechanized society I am used to either a machine such as a crane being used to accomplish such a task, or resorting to hustle days in advance to collar a handful of people for 1/2 an hour their precious time. It was actually quite wonderful to see human beings cooperating so willingly, throwing themselves into the job with so much zest and enthusiasm.
The only traumatic part of the operation was the end of the line for Moksha's remaining ecosystem. The two Dorado fish had kept with the boat until the last day of the voyage when we neared the mouth of the lagoon and the water became shallower. I was sorry to see them go. The barnacles on the other hand have been flourishing in the grimy water of the marina. Also, as we were hauling Moksha up the ramp out of the water today, the black suckerfish that had often latched onto me after barnacle cleaning sessions out on the ocean made a last ditch attempt to stay with its beloved boat. First it stuck itself to Louie's leg as he guided Moksha the last few yards out of the water, then mine. Detaching it from my skin and returning it to the water for the last time I felt sad for this tiny creature that had traveled underneath the boat for many hundreds of miles across the Pacific, now only to be left stranded alone in the murky waters of a foreign marina with no more familiar underside of Moksha as home.
Sentiments aside, it feels good to have Moksha on dry land. She's in a right state though - a real mess inside and out. So the next few weeks will be kept busy with cleaning her out, oiling tools, testing gear that might need to be returned to the US for repair or replacement, repairing minor structural damage from the crossing and sanding down the hull for a badly needed paint job. Anyone needing a vacation in the middle of nowhere next spring is welcome to come out here and get their hands dirty!
Apart from installing Moksha in her new home, the last week and half since making landfall has been quietly picking up momentum. The first few days were spent just drifting around in a bubble like one normally does after a long voyage. It's as if there's a pane of glass between you and the rest of the outside world. You're able to experience external reality but without really being a part of it - like in a dream world.
But I'm quite surprised at how quickly I've re-adjusted this time. There's been no weeklong decompression in a hotel room like after the Atlantic crossing. Perhaps the more voyages I do the easier it gets. Or maybe having stayed in contact with people more during the voyage via email and satellite phone has helped to keep my mind from withdrawing from 'land mode' completely. I don't know.
As well as visiting a few schools, April, Maurice and I have taken the time to indulge in some non-expedition activities. A local tour of the three day battle of Tarawa - November 20th to 22nd 1943 in which 1,113 American Marines of the 2nd Marine Division and 30 US Naval seamen were killed recapturing the island of Betio from Japanese forces - gave us a sobering insight into the more recent history of the atoll. The land rights of Betio have been a bone of contention between the people of Tarawa ever since their ancestors arrived by canoe many centuries before. But whilst the local people valued the land for the production of food for their families, Japanese and American forces fought each other for the strategic position Betio represented in the central Pacific theatre of the second world war.
Recapturing the airstrip was one of the key objectives of US Marines that stormed the island following the naval bombardment of Japanese troop and equipment placements by US naval vessels positioned 12 miles off shore to the south of the island.
Shortly before dawn on the 20th, several waves of American troops loaded into landing craft and waited for the green light to be given. This didn't come until 9am for the first wave, by which time the lagoon tide was turning from high to low and many of the men had involuntarily disposed of their steak and egg breakfast thanks to the heavy swell. The ensuing assault upon the north facing beaches of Betio Island was unsuccessful in securing a foothold. During this first wave, many of the landing craft became hung up on the reef leaving the attacking force no option but to wade in neck high across a mile or so of open water under heavy machine gun fire. Many of the casualties occurred during this first assault. In the afternoon of the first day, successive waves of US Marines that had been waiting in landing craft since dawn managed to make landings on the beaches further to the east. It took two more days for US Marines to flush out the Japanese soldiers that had installed themselves in bunkers as deep as 20ft under the ground. By the end of the operation which saw US forces retake the island, only 17 of the approximately 3,500 strong defending Japanese force were left alive. The rest were either killed or committed suicide rather than be taken prisoner.
Remains of Japan Zero on the reef
The reef is covered in bullets that can be found at low tide
Japanese and American helmets and canteens recovered from the reef
Inside the Japanese command bunker with hole blown through wall by 12 inch shell from US naval bombardment
This last weekend April and I walked up lagoon to explore north Tarawa, which is less developed than the south. Correspondingly fewer people live there and their ways and customs are more traditional also. Starting out early on Saturday morning to make use of the low tide which made wading the channels between the small islands easier, we hiked for four hours before being picked up by a motorcycle that had been sent to ferry us up to the island of Naa on the northern tip of the atoll. There we took up residence in a small guesthouse constructed almost entirely from local palm trees and perched on stilts a little ways out into the lagoon. For the remainder of the weekend we indulged in doing absolutely nothing. It's the first time for ages that I have been divorced from a phone or a computer for more than five minutes - something that rarely happens on the expedition these days. The next few weeks are fully booked with appointments with local schools so this was perhaps one of the last chances to wallow in absolute apathy before leaving the island.
Jason
Monsoonal rain runs in rivers off the tin roof outside the window as I write this 'farewell to Tarawa.' Soon the sky will clear, giving way to another Pacific sunset. This island has cast a spell over me, and I feel my patterned 'normal' existence in Colorado may be the only way to bring about a harsh reality check.
But this place and its people have made a lasting impression. It's been an adventure to explore these small land groups which make up Tarawa. Such differences and attitudes in the people and communities scattered throughout this tiny region, but unified in the fact that they have been the most accommodating group of people I've ever met. And all, through the Tarawa grapevine have been anxious to learn of the man who arrived in a boat pedaled across their vast ocean!
The urban sprawl of Betio and surrounding towns to the south, disappears as one travels into the far reaches of north Tarawa. Channels of clear ocean water traverse the land from ocean side to lagoon. These cover the middle third of the island, making travel by a land vehicle impossible until reaching the north region. One can travel by boat, but we elected to hike, exploring the coral beds exposed by low tide. We made channel crossings in waist deep water, backpacks slung over our heads. The I Kiribati fishermen, paralleling our hike a few hundred yards off, watched us in amazement. I would guess we became the topic of dinner conversation, as their crossing of the same channels were made through water only ankle deep!
Our destination was north of Bauriki at the far end of the island. Mike Strub operates a small resort, complete with snorkeling, fishing and gourmet food! What a 'find' this was and Buariki Guest House gives a visual glimpse of a truly exotic location. Definitely a 'must see' when you visit Tarawa!
School visits began last week, making initial contacts to set up our expedition cultural exchange programs. This morning we visited with 5th and 6th graders at Dai Nippon Elementary. Beginning with two students, we showed the pair how to make paper. These kids then became the instructors, demonstrating the process to the next pair of students. This pattern continued, allowing students to facilitate their learning process. The objective is to create global links with kids in other countries, writing letters on paper they've had a hand in making! Older students will also have the chance to participate in "Step Into My World", the video and photo exchange programs when Jason visits high schools next week. These programs promote a cultural exchange of sharing through the eye of a camera.
So I say goodbye to Tarawa, but not quite ready to leave... I will be extremely excited to share this corner of the world with my students at the start of the new school year... In addition, there is much to be done to connect the children here with the rest of the world!
April
Posted on July 26, 1999 6:11 AM