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September 4, 2001

Overland Australia - Update 37

September 4, 2001
Day 43

From Mick:

We set off early this morning from Trephina Nature Park, where yes terday we had a “true” day off. It was absolutely wonderful. We all went our own ways, either hiking and/or biking through Trephina’s breathtaking park. I don’t believe any of us encountered another soul throughout the day, some- thing quite unusual for a national park.

roadtoalice.jpg

All of us felt refreshed and all very quiet on the road to Alice Springs this morning. The road was paved in bitumen and spectacular mountain-scapes surrounded us every kilometer. The forces of nature that created these ranges kept all of our attention and made the total distance of 80 kilometers go in the blink of an eye. It was, yet again, a perfect riding day: the wind at our backs; the sun shining a cool 85 degrees F; cadence of 32 kilometers an hour that felt as though you were hardly pedaling at all. And some of the Macdonnell Range’s most amazing sites - you can see without ever leaving bitumen - pulling us onward.

rocknearalice.jpg

We stopped to look at Corroboree Rock, a significant religious site for the Eastern Arrente tribe. We also stopped for our ‘billy break’ at Jessie Gap, one of a number of cuts in the range caused by the erosive action of rivers flowing north/ south. These and many other parts of the landscape – like the wildflowers lining the roadside - entertained us on our way to Alice Springs, our last ‘town’ as such before reaching Darwin.

FROM APRIL:

The Ross Highway from Trephina Gorge toward Alice Springs was quiet. Bicycle tires whirred along the bitumen surface as we made our way west, past Emily and Jessie Gaps. Perhaps only ten cars had passed us all morning so our safety net of ‘Car Up’ and ‘Car Back’ to identify oncoming traffic was in little use. The bike team seemed especially quiet as we rode, perhaps contemplating our return to settled areas. Each time we’ve approached towns, it seems to be with a bit of trepidation on my part. To leave the remoteness of the Outback with only our little group for company almost always has my experiencing culture shock.

The increase in traffic mixed with a bit of sign pollution encouraging the traveller to ‘SEE THIS!’ or ‘STAY HERE!’ signalled things were about to change. As we drew near the outer limits of Alice Springs, traffic became too thick for ‘Car Up’ and ‘Car Back’ and turned rapidly into ‘Everyman for Himself’! I became slightly overwhelmed, trying to watch for all of the obstacles one has to deal with when riding into town. I gave Crister a wild eyed looked and he commented, “I wonder when we’re leaving?!”

Sidling up next to the curb between the railroad tracks and the Stuart Highway, we waited for all of us to get gathered up before preceding into town. It was at that moment that I heard the dull roar of a locomotive. Not two meters away, The Ghan, the legendary train of the Australian Outback, came thundering past. I was suddenly consumed by the romance of history associated with trains, the rhythmic clicking of the cars on steel rails conjuring up images of 1930s rail travel. Thinking of the historical significance of a town called Alice, the excitement of discoveries that awaited me replaced my initial dread of the adjustment to town life. Yes, this was going to be quite interesting…

April

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Posted on September 4, 2001 1:04 PM