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June 17, 2005

Border Xing Complete!

DAY: 3
LOCATION: Maubara
NAUTICAL MILES TODAY: 0
NAUTICAL MILES TOTAL TRIP: 22
LATITUDE :08degs, 37.08'S
LONGITUDE: 125degs, 10.71'E

Today was a big day. For 3-years, since first putting my mind to planning this leg through Indonesia, I've been befuddled as to how best to carry out the crossing from East Timor into Indonesia - with kayaks. Plus pedaling Moksha into either Dili or Kupang, then shipping her out to Singapore (now arranged thanks to Perkins), and keeping the human powered trail 'pure' also were complicating factors, mounting up to an almost impossible logistical equation. But at 3.30 this afternoon we paddled away from the Indonesian side of the border with entry stamps in our passports and without having to pay a single penny in 'fines' or bribes for bringing the kayaks into the Indonesia.

We have high level nepotism partly to thank (actually the highest). When we arrived at the border shortly after lunch we were briskly stamped out of Indonesia, then escorted by 3 x East Timorese policemen across the half kilometre no-mans-land to the Indonesian side. They even let Isa drive the truck with the kayaks loaded on top across to save having to carry them.

Before crossing the Indonesian side we employed the services of around 15 local lads to help carry the kayaks the last few hundred yards through a series of checkpoints, beginning with customs, then immigration, police, then marine police (I think - I started to lose track after a while). It was clear that someone at the top had made a phone call on our behalf as we were basically greenlighted through a process that, given the unusual nature of our entry (with kayaks) and intended route (through the archipelago to Singapore), should have taken all day, if not a week. Ina forged the way ahead, bossing everyone around and conversing with the officials in Bahasa, showing them the letters and paperwork we've been acquiring since Darwin. Big smiles greeted us at every turn, and instead of waiting around in small offices with the officials waiting outside for a bribe to be paid, we were almost treated like celebs - one of the border patrol guys even requesting a photo to be taken of he and Chris together. Basically these guys were making sure their jobs were secure.

After just 40-mins of officialdom we asked the porters to carry the boats down to the beach where we swiftly packed up and headed out towards the island of Alor. A few miles down the coast however we snuck back into East Timor and rendezvoused with Isa and the truck, and at the time of writing we're back in Maubara staying at a Nunnery (another Ina connection). For a number of reasons, including Ina's illness, we've decided to delay our 16nm crossing to Alor until Sunday morning (looks like the weather will hold also). This will also give us the time to get a full night's sleep and prepare fully tomorrow for a bright and early start at around 4am on Sunday.

On behalf of everyone on the team I'd like to thank Ina and Isa for making this logisitcal hurdle such a doddle, the Presidents of East Timor and Indonesia, Carlos Geronimo (Head of Immigration for East Timor), Pak Hendarsin (Head of Immigration for Indonesia in Dili) and the local personnel at the border.

Next up on the agenda is our first major crossing of a 'selat' (a passage between islands) to Alor. We've heard so many horror stories of whirlpools and 14 knot currents that we're taking it pretty seriously (hence the day layover). However, if today is any indication it should do pretty smoothly. Having said that the ocean is answerable to no-one, so we can't rely on any outside string pulling on this one.

Posted on June 17, 2005 3:03 PM

Comments

Posted by: Carlheinz Franke at June 17, 2005 7:42 PM