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June 22, 2005
Head Hunters of Old
DAY: 8
LOCATION: sandy beach - no people for a change!
NAUTICAL MILES TODAY: 8
NAUTICAL MILES TOTAL TRIP: 72
LATITUDE :08degs, 26.34'S
LONGITUDE: 124degs, 32.97'E
This evening we find ourselves in relative luxury - a white sandy beach overlooking an idyllic little cove. And the best part about it is there are NO PEOPLE HERE! The first time we've had any privacy since arriving on Alor some 4 days ago.
We got here pretty late though, and didn't manage too many miles on account of not leaving Mataru village, where we spent last night, until 1.30 this afternoon. The reason was our guided tour this morning of some of the cultural heritage sites important to the local people. Matan (who I thought last night was called Matt) kindly picked Lourdes, Ina and I (Chris picked the short straw to stay behind and look after the stuff) up at around 6.30 and together we wandered down the coastal path leading west though the adjacent villages to Mataru. Pretty soon we had another in our party - the one of the tribal elders responsible for their sacred sites. At only 42 years old I could have sworn he was more like 60. There also seem to be alot of health problems in this community - many people, especially the children and elderly, look pretty sick, many with open sores on their arms and legs - perhaps a combination of bad diet and lack of sanitation?
Our first site was a bit of a disappointment. The fossil footprint (some 2.5 feet in length) of a giant human was reputed to be visible on a rock overlooking the ocean. But when we got there the elder explained that the rock had sheared off its original position during the November 12th earthquake of last year, blocking the footprint from easy viewing. Nearby however we were shown the skeleton of a young child, possibly the victim of a head-hunting party pre-1960's (which is when the practise along with cannabilism was officially called to a halt here on Alor).
We were then told of the head of the giant along with some other bones another 2 kms walk down the coast, so off we trotted. The trot soon became a bit of a slog however, with the 2kms dragged out to 4, and all three of us were starting to suspect we were on a wild goose chase. Lourdes actually started to feel quite uncomfortable with the energy of the places we were walking through, and at one point considered heading back. But as we're all starting to realize, this is a very different part of the world where everthing kind of happens, but not necessarily when you think it will - very good for one's patience.
Eventually the elder and Matan headed off the beaten track and led us under the overhang of a rock. There, nestled in a cradle of rounded beach rocks, were a clutch of bones originating as it turned out from various people, all the victims of a headhunting party from another island.
The legend goes that some 180 years ago, the king of this area was a giant over 3 metres tall. He was slain during the battle with the attacking war-party and as king, his head was removed and taken as a trophy. We were shown a huge rib, pelvis and femur bone which is all that is left of the king - but no head. The other bones and the skulls belonged to other members of the tribe whose bodies were left intact.
What's interesting here is the dovetailing of myth and a more likely historical scenario based on western scientific reasoning. The rib and pelvis were definitely from a larger animal, likely a cow. Somehow 'way back when' these bones were mixed with the human ones, and today they serve an important purpose in supporting the story of how their ancestral king was once a giant with an enormous head (the most important part of the body for these people) some 2-feet in diametre - the evidence being the huge pelvis and rib.
I have no doubt we were the first outsiders to see these sacred sites (the last visitor was a German who spent a day here 6 years ago looking for fish in the bay), and as such it was a great privilege. I felt a little ambivalent however about filming, considering how sensitive the material is and the fact I am taking what is essentially their intellectual property away from here. But when I offered to send a copy of the footage for their archives, Matan seemed to understand the significance of preserving their cultural heritage for successive generations and was quite enthusiastic about filming and taking photos. So I suppose that's the trade off.
Posted on June 22, 2005 2:24 PM
Comments
I was thinking the same thing! Do they speak English or do you have an interpreter there with you?
God Speed!
Barb
Posted by: Barb at June 28, 2005 5:57 AM
having so much trouble with spanish in barcelona,..... wondering how on earth you are communicating with villagers on the other side of the world......You.... all... ROCK!
Posted by: tom at June 23, 2005 8:37 PM