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September 3, 2005
Eve of Selat Lombok Crossing
DAY: 81
LOCATION: Pulau Trawangan
NAUTICAL MILES TODAY:
NAUTICAL MILES TOTAL TRIP: 741.5
LATITUDE : S 08 degs, 21.23'
LONGITUDE: E 116 degs, 02.57'
Today we climbed the hill on the island, as has become customary before negotiating any tricky water, to view Selat Lombok. It's always reassuring to see the land one is heading towards rather than just relying on the theory of GPS and paper charts. Far off in the distance to the west, rising above the afternoon haze, we could make out the conical outline of Mt. Agung, the highest volcano on Bali. That will be our visual reference tomorrow as we paddle due west for all our worth!
We tried to hire a support boat for the crossing but being a touristy island accustomed to tourist prices, the skippers all quoted us ludicrous sums of 4-5 million Rupiah ($4-500). Not that it's a had price for the life insurance policy it provides (in the event we get into trouble), but that would cut the remainder of the expedition budget to finish this leg to Singapore by half. Perhaps one day before it's finished this expedition will have proper backing so we don't have to cut it as fine as I think we will be tomorrow...
Tonight I have the same feeling as I do before a major ocean crossing in Moksha. That of being quite apprehensive, not least because I am making critical decisions about someone else's life as well as my own. Also, when about to step into the abyss of not REALLY knowing how the immediate future will play out and our chances of walking away intact, I find myself quite reflective and more aware of my physical surroundings than normal: the birdsong this evening is amplified; the colours of the sunset more enhanced. All the subtle reminders of how fragile and transient human existence is resonate with increased intensity when faced with having it (what I know I take for granted on a daily basis) potentially taken away.
Adrenaline will be our friend and companion when we launch 'Queenie' at 4.30 am tomorrow morning and start our dash westwards. It will be a good feeling, that of being pretty much on the edge, of living in the eye of the moment. That's the buzz associated with steering one's life into the grey area between certainty and the unknown. But there's also a feeling that I haven't had before - that of a slight reality check. In little over a week I will be 38-years old and although I am grateful to still be under youthfull illusion of being indestructible and living forever (I doubt I'd still be doing this expedition if I didn't), there's a small part of me that is increasingly aware of the finite limits of the human body, mind and spirit, especially when taking on great odds like we will be tomorrow. It must be middle age creeping up on me and the realisation that Peter Pan has to retire from this tomfoolery some day, ideally before the law of averages catches up with him!
We're both hoping very much to be writing to the blog tomorrow afternoon saying that we're safe and sound and have Balinese turf under our toes.
Posted on September 3, 2005 2:04 PM