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February 14, 2007

First Impression of Life on the Ocean Wave - from Sher

LOCATION: Arabian Sea Crossing
Day: 15
SEE WHERE WE ARE!
Longitude: N:16°03138
Latitude: E: 065°54243
Heading: 210°M
Wind: variable, force: calm
Miles from Mumbai: 500
Miles to Djibouti: 1,300

It's all about the wind. Or in our case, the lack thereof.

The last three days of the voyage have been the toughest so far. The lack of any assistance from the wind has made progress very challenging. Each mile has to be earned in sweat and aching knees. The sun has been unrelenting as it follows its daily path from one end of the horizon to the other. It has been VERY hot, and the ocean has been at times completely still and eerily silent.

I first pedaling Moksha almost 11 years ago in Santa Cruz, California, on a clear Autumn day. As Jason and I left the harbour we became fouled in sea kelp and the rest of the time we spent untangling the propellor and then pedaling back to harbour.

The idea of a human powered crossing of an ocean had captured my imagination at that time. It never occurred to me that I might one day be pedaling Moksha on one of the ocean legs. About three months ago I was asked by Jason if I might be interested in accompanying him on the Arabian Sea crossing to Africa. I had to think long and hard, but eventually the lure of that same idea that had captured my imagination all those years ago proved too hard to resist.

Moksha cuts through the water effortlessly. She yields to the movement of the waves rather than fight against them. It is possible to get a feel for each wave as it passes underneath.

Adjusting to life on board has been easier than I imagined, helped in part by the lack of knowledge and any pre-conceived notions. The ocean is an alien environment not conducive to human survival. Our ability to stay alive out here more than a few hours is dependent upon the resources and equipment somehow loaded into this tiny 4 foot by 26 foot universe. And the fact that all that separates us from half a mile of ocean is just half an inch of wood reiterates just how fragile our condition is.

Life on board brings with it its own set of challenges. There is the constant movement of the ocean (when there's wind!), lack of space and after a while the constant tiredeness that comes from only being able to sleep for 2-3 hours at any one stretch, and a total of 6 hours in any 24 hour period. Every movement has to be carefully choreographed, each action rehearsed in the mind. And the steps required to execute each action have to be completed in a methodical and sequential manner to avoid a disastrous outcome, such as dinner ending up in the bottom of the boat.

The biggest challenge I've found is trying to stay awake while pedaling at night. I've developed my own techniques to keep from dozing off; some nights are spent listening to music on our little ipod shuffle while others are spent enjoying the beauty of the moon reflecting on the surface of the ocean all around. The last few nights has seen incredible phosphorescence in the water. The still darkness of the water has been periodically interrupted by explosive patterns of liquid silver fireworks triggered by shoals of flying fish breaking the surface.

Sitting on the back deck, sipping my evening cup of tea and watching the sun go down, is definitely one of the high points of the day. This little bit of free time from pedaling or doing chores allows a short period for reflection and what an enormous contrast this way of life this is compared my normal life - sitting behind a desk at Hewlett Packard in Cupertino.

Now if only the wind would pick up...

Sher

Posted on February 14, 2007 2:32 PM