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June 6, 2007
All Roads lead to Halfa (eventually)
LOCATION: Abri , Northern Sudan
SEE WHERE WE ARE!
Longitude: N:20deg.48'21.
Latitude: E: 030deg.20'51.
Kms from Djibouti: 3,021
The 'road' (if it can even be called that) leading north from Dongola to Wadi Halfa is worse than I anticipated. If it's not deeply rutted sand, the surface of any one of numerous tracks snaking through the desert is severely corrugated and a nightmare to ride on a bike without suspension. My daily speed has dropped to single digits for most of the time, averaging out to just over 10 kmph (6 mph). And it's not been possible to travel at night because of the need to constantly be seeking out the best surface to ride on, so it's back to sweating it out during the daylight hours. But enough said about the heat!
The one saving grace, at least until now, has been the presence of the Nile which I always keep within sight to my left side. Once I took a wrong turn and ended up tearing off in completely the wrong direction into the desert following telegraph poles instead. Before long I felt a strong sense of emptiness and absence of the safety net provided by the strip of green lining the river. A GPS fix married to the topo map soon but me back on track. But it was a mistake I have not allowed myself to repeat: the desert is not a place for mistakes.
The hospitality of the local Nubian people has also helped to offset the rough conditions. Often when I stop at one of the small roadside shelters housing clay pots filled with river water I will be offered food, tea and a mat to crash out on for a while. This has really made a difference in the heat of the afternoon when I find myself aiming to ride increments of just 10 kms before collapsing for a rest. This pattern will change on this next section however: the last 180 kms from here to Wadi Halfa where villages become fewer and fewer as the road veers into the desert. So I'm resting here in Abri this morning of the 6th before continuing later this afternoon for the final push, expected to take a further 3-days.
I've given up trying to filter the river-water as the membrane on my Katadyn water filter clogs too quickly. So I'm now just using iodine, which actually seems to be agreeing better with my internal plumbing.
Crossing the Nile from the west to east bank ended up being quite the fun interlude to break up the desert slog (see video above). The point where I was looking to cross at Argo seemed too wide to swim - nearly a kilometre - with a swift flowing current and known crocodile haunt in the islands downstream. It was with great relief therefore that I discovered a small rowing boat nestled in the reeds. Made entirely out of beaten-out oil drums (even the oar blades cut from the lids!) it wasn't something I'd want to take on an ocean with, but it would certainly beat swimming across the Nile. A couple of mobile phone calls later the owner, a local fisherman called Osman, kindly came from his village (having just buried his Uncle that very morning!) and together we pushed off and arrived on the other side just 15 minutes later. When I handed him the equivalent of $25 US he initially refused, saying it was way too much. "Just think of it as a life-insurance payment", I told him. "You very likely just save my life!"
At a more sensible time of year, at least in terms of the climate, this is certainly a part of the world I'd recommend exploring by mountain bike either side of the river. Just north of Kerma near the village of Tombos I stumbled across an ancient granite quarry used by the early Egyptians to carve statues for the nearby temple built by Thutmose I to commemorate his conquest of Kerma in late 15th century BC. And further north on the west bank a few weather beaten columns are all that remain of the temple of Soleb, built by Amenhotep III in the 14th century BC, similar in design and build apparently to the Temple of Luxor in Egypt. It still amazes me that these ancient artifacts are just lying about uncared for in the desert being used as little more than scratching posts for sheep and goats. Maybe one day, when it's too late, the Sudanese government will wake up and realise what an incredible historical legacy they've allowed to dissolve into dust.
Regarding getting permission to cross Lake Nasser: I did have a conversation with the Egyptian ambassador in Khartoum the day before yesterday and he expressed sincere interest in the expedition and promised to follow up personally with the Ministry of Tourism in Cairo. So I feel quite positive about the outcome of this, knowing that my request letter hasn't just disappeared under a pile of paperwork.
jason
MORE IMAGES (click to enlarge)
** MOKSHA SHIPPING TO EUROPE FUNDING DRIVE **
> Total to raise: $4,500
> Total raised to date: $3,750
> Total still to raise: $750
Sincerest thanks to the following for your pledges -
- Anonymous, USA, $250
- The Sheltons, UK, $1,000
- Michael Rawlings, UK, $50
- Crister Brady, US, $50
- Karl Kaseoru, US, $500
- John and Bridget Maxwell, UK, $50
- Jennifer Mackenzie, US, $50
- Ian McCormick, UK, $200
- Terry Mason, California USA, $200
- Jackie and Jean Bernard, Djibouti, $250.
- Erden Eruc and Nancy Board of Around n Over, Seattle USA, $250
- Sharon Kessler, Colorado USA, $500
- Jane Koca, San Jose USA, $50
- John Caldwell, San Jose USA, $100
- Greg Kolodziejzyk of Pedal the Ocean, Canada, $250
Posted on June 6, 2007 7:01 AM